Tuesday, August 6, 2013

How to Make Bent Willow Furniture

Rustic bent willow furniture is strong and long lasting and a perfect addition to any patio or porch. Also called "twig furniture," it is not hard to make with willow that grows abundantly along wet bogs and marshes. Here is how to make a rustic, bent willow table. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Gather several long, straight willow branches of various diameter. These branches should be taken from live trees and cut the day you plan to make the table. Remove the smaller shoots and leaves from the branches as cleanly as possible, leaving only small nubs.

    2

    Choose four straight, evenly-sized large branches for the table legs and cut to the height you want the table. Cut four additional pieces for the cross members, and bevel the ends of the cross member pieces with a whittling knife.

    3

    Cut and trim four more pieces of willow to make the frame for the bottom shelf. Use an electric drill and bit and carefully drill holes into the ends of the four frame pieces. Place the pieces together to make a square and use short, galvanized wood screws to secure the corners together. Fill in shelf with additional branches and willow twigs.

    4

    Build the top of the table the same way as the lower shelf and bore holes into the frame so the branches can be secured inside the square with screws.

    5

    Position the bottom shelf at the desired height against the table legs. Attach each leg to the outside corners of the bottom shelf. Bore holes through each leg into the shelf and secure with screws.

    6

    Attach the table top to the legs in the same way, then add the cross member pieces. Place the cross sections so they extend across each side, near the bottom of each leg and screw them to the legs. The more cross sections that are used, the sturdier the table will be.

    7

    Decorate the table with pieces of tree branches. Bend the green branches into decorative shapes and secure to the furniture with screws.

    8

    Finish the bent willow twig furniture with a good quality waterproofing finish. Reapply waterproofing each year to the twig furniture as needed to protect the wood.

Monday, August 5, 2013

How to Save Rose Petals

How to Save Rose Petals

Often roses are part of a special event or occasion we want to remember, and preserving the petals gives us a special way to do that. Rose petals are also very aromatic, and saving the petals allows use in aromatherapy baths or in potpourri to place around the house. Continue to smell and see the beauty of the rose petals with these ideas. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Ways to Save Rose Petals

    1

    Lay a window screen down on two bricks, placed at the edges of the screen. This will give air a way to circulate underneath the screen to optimize drying. Set up your screen dryer in a dark, dry spot.

    2

    Gently pull the petals off the roses, and lay them out on the screen to dry. Make one layer and do your best not to let the rose petals touch each other. Check on the rose petals every few days. It may take up to 2 weeks for them to dry, depending upon the climate conditions.

    3
    Rose petals in basket

    Save your rose petals in a basket for potpourri. This will allow you to enjoy the aroma. Some wonderful spices to add to rose petals are whole cloves, crushed cinnamon sticks and crushed nutmegs. Sprinkle with a few drops of essential rose oil and you will have a potpourri that will stay aromatic for months.

    4
    Rose petals lining a gel candle

    Line the bottom of the glass bowl or jar with rose petals, then set a candle in the middle for a wonderful candleholder. As the flame heats up, so will the aroma of roses.

    5

    Use your rose petals in crafts. Paste them on a picture frame or a bookmark.

Sunday, August 4, 2013

How to Install an Outdoor Faucet

Your garden needs watering, and once again you have to hook up two or three hoses or walk around the house to access an outdoor faucet. You have thought about installing a new spigot, but put it off because you think it's difficult. This is one do-it-yourself task that is worth the time and effort necessary to plan and implement installation. The time you spend working in your yard will be more enjoyable and productive after you install a new outdoor faucet. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Locate the source from which you will draw water. This may be the water main, another outdoor faucet, or a nearby indoor water pipe. Finding the closest available water supply greatly simplifies the project.

    2

    Measure the distance from the water supply to the area where you wish to locate your faucet. Follow the same path the pipe must take. Choose plastic ABS pipe or galvanized metal pipe. Draw the path of the water line, including measurements, from the water source to the new faucet location. Use graph paper and make a scaled drawing. Mark any turns or rises that must be accommodated.

    3

    Make a list of fittings you will need to build the water line. At a minimum, you will need a tee for tapping into the existing water source, piping, a 90-degree elbow and the faucet. If your path is not straight, you will need additional 45- or 90-degree elbows to accommodate turns. If your path is longer than the available piping, you will need couplers to join the pipe.

    If you are using metal pipe and do not own a pipe threader, you will need to measure each distance and have the pipe cut and threaded when you purchase. Most stores that sell pipe also provide cutting and threading services.

    4

    You may run the piping above ground, along the exterior of your home, or bury the pipe. If you run it above ground, it must be insulated to prevent freezing. If you are burying the pipe, dig a trench approximately 12 to 18 inches deep along the path you have mapped out.

    5

    Turn off the main water supply to your home. Tap into the pipe you wish to use as a water source by cutting it and adding the tee fitting. If using metal pipe, wrap the threads with Teflon tape and tighten the tee securely. If using ABS, glue the tee in place. Attach the next piece of pipe to the outlet of the tee. Continue attaching subsequent pipe, joints or elbows until you reach the area in which your faucet is located. Use the 90-degree elbow and attach a length of pipe that places the faucet at the desired height.

    If using metal, you must wrap the threads with Teflon tape and attach the faucet. Tighten securely. If using ABS plastic, you must attach a threaded coupler on the end before attaching the faucet. Glue the non-threaded end of the coupler to the ABS pipe. Wrap the threaded end with Teflon tape and attach the faucet.

    6

    Turn on the water and test for leaks. Tighten pipe threads or re-glue any areas that leak. Secure the upright pipe to the nearest wall using pipe strapping or a clamp. If it is a freestanding faucet, you may wish to build a support structure around it from wood, metal or concrete to prevent damage.

How to Vegetable Garden in Pots

How to Vegetable Garden in Pots

You don't need lots of land to have a vegetable garden. If you have a sizable courtyard, patio or porch, you can grow a fairly wide variety of vegetables in containers. Even if you only have a sunny doorstep in the city, you can grow a little salad garden that will serve you well. Growing vegetables in pots is also a great option if you have poor drainage or soil quality. As with any other garden, good planning is the key to success. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Planning

    1

    Choose your plants carefully. Every gardener's space is limited, and that goes for container gardeners as well. Chances are that you will not be able to have a farm-sized crop, so decide which vegetables are most important to you. Make a list and prioritize it. Place the ones you simply must have on top, and the ones you can live without toward the bottom. Choose varieties that are smaller and bushy, but that offer high yields.

    2

    Consider how much of each vegetable you desire your plants to yield. Then, decide if it is worth the space. For example, you might like the idea of growing corn in a container, but if you only have space for two corn stalks, and each stalk only yields two pieces of corn, you might decide it's not worth growing corn for four cobs. You might prefer to put that space toward a higher yielding plant, such as zucchini or bush beans, with which you can reap a more bountiful harvest.

    3

    Research approximately how large a container you will need for each plant. With some varieties, such as loose-leaf lettuce and baby carrots, you'll be able to fit several plants into a good-sized window box. Others, such as broccoli, artichokes or corn, are going to require 15 to 25 gallon containers.

    4

    Make a scale diagram of your space, planning out the placement of the pots and what they will contain. Make sure that all your plants are placed where they will be getting at least 8 hours per day of sunlight. The great thing about container gardening is that plants can be moved if need be, but you should think carefully from the start about how to utilize your space most efficiently.

Preparation

    5

    Purchase your containers. Simple plastic or terra cotta containers are fairly inexpensive, but if you want a cheaper yet less attractive alternative, purchase plain black containers from growers. Grow bags are also an inexpensive option that are becoming more popular for gardeners concerned more with practicality than appearance. You can also be creative in gathering containers: clean 5-gallon buckets, jumbo coffee cans, home-made wooden box planters or old children's wading pools can make great options. Just ensure that the containers you use are made of nontoxic materials (or untreated wood), cleaned well and have holes drilled in the bottom for drainage.

    6

    Choose a growing medium. In a container, the lighter weight the growing medium, the better it is for the plants, as well as the backs of those who might have to move them. It helps promote good drainage and allows the roots more mobility. Look for a potting soil or soil-less medium specifically made for container vegetables, with the right combination of nutrients.

    7

    Purchase starter plants from a reputable nursery, or seeds. Plant them in containers the same time you would plant them in the ground. If a plant would require support, such as a stake or a cage, put it in at the time you transplant or sow seeds. Don't try to do this later, as you risk damaging roots and killing the plant.

Care

    8

    Add a layer of mulch to help keep the soil moist and protect it from weeds and pests. If you live in cooler climates or feel your space does not get enough sun, try using flat aluminum foil pans cut to the size of the pot, with holes made for the plants to grow through. This will add reflected light and also prevent certain pests, such as aphids. Don't do this in very warm climates, or the reflected light can burn the plants.

    9

    Water frequently, and after 8 weeks, begin adding an all-purpose water-soluble fertilizer to the water every couple of weeks. Potted plants can loose moisture and nutrients quickly, but be careful not to overdo it. Too much water will result in root rot, and too much fertilizer can burn the plant.

    10

    Care for your plants as you would any ground plants--examine them regularly for pests or disease, weed when necessary and harvest when fruits are ready.

How to Build Raised Veggie Garden Boxes

How to Build Raised Veggie Garden Boxes

A raised vegetable garden box is one that is raises the soil and roots well above the ground. This raise can be anywhere between an inch to several inches, depending on your personal preference. These boxes can help you separate and organize your vegetable plants. Raised vegetable garden boxes are constructed using solid 2-by-4 lumber pieces, which means you can choose whatever kind of lumber you desire and customize and personalize your vegetable garden box for your back yard. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Bring your measuring tape into your garden to determine how large you want your vegetable garden box to be. Measure how long and wide you want the box to be, along with the height of the raised box. Write all three measurements down.

    2

    Lay the 2-by-4 lumber pieces down. Use the three measurements and a pencil to create the pieces needed for the vegetable garden box. The front and back pieces should be drawn on the lumber with the length and height measurements. The side pieces should be drawn using the width and height measurements. These four pieces will give you a box frame. Cut these four pieces out with the table saw, and remove the majority of splinters by sandpapering the ends.

    3

    Arrange the four pieces to create raised garden box frame. The side pieces should go in between the back and front pieces. Apply nails through the front and back pieces with a hammer, so the pieces become connected. Use the level during this process to make sure the box frame is even.

    4

    Place the frame on top of the plywood sheet. Use the pencil to trace the outer perimeter of the box. The plywood rectangle just drawn will be the bottom of the vegetable garden box. Remove the frame from the plywood and cut the plywood piece out with the table saw. Remove any splinters by sandpapering the edges. Place the plywood bottom piece on top of the frame. Apply nails through the bottom plywood piece, so the nails extend into the lumber frame. The nails should be spaced 2 inches apart.

    5

    Put the measuring tape inside the garden box and measure the height of the garden box walls. Also collect the measurements of the inside length and width of the box. Use these measurements to cut out four plastic pieces with the scissors that will go on the inside walls of the box. Apply glue to the inside walls and apply the plastic pieces to the inside box frame. This will ensure that the wood does not become damaged from the soil or vegetables.

    6

    Create a drainage system for the vegetable garden box by drilling 10 small holes in the bottom of the box. These holes should be evenly spread around on the plywood bottom and should be drilled with the 1/2-inch drill bit and drill. Creative Homemaking suggests adding small rocks on the holes to keep the soil in the box, as the water will still drain past the rocks.

How to Treat Outdoor Wood Furniture

How to Treat Outdoor Wood Furniture

The idea of using wooden furniture in an outdoor setting can be frightening for many homeowners. Exposing wood furniture to potential pests or elements of nature conjurs thoughts of rotting wood and mildew. This does not neccessarily have to be the case. If wood is properly treated and cared for, it can withstand exposure to rain, sleet, snow, and sunlight. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Clean the furniture by dusting with a feather duster. Take care to get into cracks and crevices with the feather duster. If you have heavy stains or grease, wipe only that section with mild detergent and a damp rag. Let the piece dry completely before proceeding.

    2

    Lay a plastic drop cloth in a well-ventilated area. Set the furniture on top of the drop cloth. Pour the water repellent solution into a used metal coffee can. Apply the water repellent to the piece of wood furniture thoroughly with short overlapping strokes of the brush. Saturate each section as you go, allowing it to penetrate the wood grains deeply. Let the water repellent dry for around two to four hours, and then add a second coat of the sealant and allow to dry completely.

    3

    Cover the piece with an oil-based wood stain or exterior oil-based paint using a paintbrush or paint roller. Do this outdoors when the temperature is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not apply when it is raining, misting, or damp. Smooth out any bubbles in the finish as you go. Apply the first coat of stain or paint and allow to dry overnight. Add a second coat of paint to the first and let dry overnight again.

    4

    Pour a little polyurethane into a clean metal coffee can. Use a wide paintbrush that is recommended for varnish or polyurethane. Dip the brush into the polyurethane and run lightly over the edge to remove any excess product. Apply the polyurethane to the furniture in thin, even strokes, taking care not to streak the furniture. Leave in an area that has good air circulation and allow to dry for around 12 hours. Apply a second coat of polyurethane to the furniture and allow to dry.

    5

    Check any hinges or screws on the furniture to see if they are rusted. If so, replace with aluminum pieces that are rust-proof. Spray metal components with a little bit of WD-40 to keep them well-lubricated. Check them at least two or three times a year and spray with WD-40.

    6

    Protect your furniture by covering with vinyl furniture covers at night. During the winter, you may want to bring the wooden pieces indoors for storage. If this is not possible, cover them during the winter season with the vinyl covers.

Saturday, August 3, 2013

Small Vegetable Garden Design

Small Vegetable Garden Design

Even if your vegetable garden is on the small side, you still can maximize its benefits and yield. Small spaces do present some limitations, but with proper design and some creativity, you can work around this. Be sure to chose an area that provides enough sunlight, and is easily accessible for routine maintenance and watering. Does this Spark an idea?

Planning

    Plan ahead. Make a list of all the vegetables you would like to grow. Do a little preliminary research online or check the seed package or plant tag to find out the spacing requirements for the plants on your list. Vegetables like zucchini and squash take up a quite a bit of ground, but yield a lot with only one plant. Others plants, like tomatoes or cucumbers, don't have to take up as much ground space because they're staked to grow vertically.

    Try the less-is-more approach, and focus on specific plants, rather than trying to grow too many types. For example, instead of trying to grow 10 vegetables, go with two or maybe three plants of five different vegetables. Be sure to choose vegetables wisely, and don't pick something no one in your family will eat. Also, try specializing in one vegetable. Plant a few varieties of tomatoes or lettuce, for example.

Small Garden Layout

    Find out the dimensions of the space you have to work with, and mark off the area. The rectangular garden is most popular, but it's not a requirement. Vary the garden's shape for maximum yield. Unless the garden is narrower than 4 feet, walkways are a must in order to maintain, weed and harvest the vegetables. A good pathway should be no less than 1-foot wide. Choose the pathway's location so you can reach each section of the garden easily.

    Consider putting in raised beds if the garden's soil is less than optimal, or if part of the yard is on a hill or slope. A raised bed provides a workable, flat surface for growing where there wasn't one naturally. It's simple to create a raised bed, and many gardeners find it easier to work in an area that is up off the ground.

Square Foot Gardening

    Another option for small gardens is to plant according to the Square Foot Gardening method (see Resources). Developed by Mel Bartholomew, Square Foot Gardening amps up the soil in a small garden in order to grow more vegetables closer together. Each type of vegetable you want to grow will literally takes up 1 square foot of space, meaning a 4-by-4 foot garden can have 16 types of plants. Be careful to follow his guidelines, however, as overcrowding leads to poor air circulation, which can cause plant diseases and fungi.

Containers

    If you haven't used them before, consider container gardening as a way to expand a small garden space. Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and even zucchini can be grown successfully in containers, leaving more room in the garden for other vegetables that prefer to be in the ground.