Monday, November 25, 2013

The Best Rocks for Landscaping

The Best Rocks for Landscaping

Landscaping with rocks offers an attractive option for diversity in any yard. With many rocks to pick from, each with their own texture and color, landscaping becomes an artistic endeavor. Using rock instead of mulch is one answer for keeping your garden in tact, as it does not wash away as easily as mulch often does during hard rains. Rock is used in many eco-friendly yards as an alternate form of waterless ground cover. Does this Spark an idea?

Rocks Instead of Mulch

    One excellent mulch substitute is lava rock. This rock is porous with a rich, deep rust color. Although it is lightweight, it normally does not wash away as easily as mulch. The inexpensive rock contrasts well with decorative pots or foliage.

    Crushed stone is another choice for flower beds. It is comprised of several types of rock and is perfect as a border or for a walkway. The various rocks in crushed rock create an interesting combination of textures and colors.

Colorful Rock Choices

    Schist comes in many different colors and is perfect for adding a splash of color. Blueschist and greenschist are two types, named for their brilliant dominant color. The marble-like appearance of this rock springs to life when polished. Serpentine is a dramatic green rock often used as an accent piece because of its brilliance. This rock is not always easy to find in retail stores and may have to be special ordered.

Ideal Rocks for Patios and Pathways

    Flagstone is a flat rock perfect for walkways. As a durable choice, flagstone can handle the foot traffic that breaks softer rocks into pieces. Crushed stone is another good choice for a pathway due to its gravel-like feel. While a bit expensive comparatively, river rock is often used as a charming pathway for a cottage-style home. The smooth rock can also be used as a decorative feature alongside a walkway.

Artifical Rocks

    Fake rocks hide eyesores like utility boxes or visible piping. The popular large rocks add a definite dramatic accent to any lawn. If you're thinking about buying a large rock accent, think about buying a fake one. The increased flexibility you have for adjusting the rock to sit at just the perfect angle, or moving it around the yard as needed, elevates the status of a fake boulder to a thing of beauty.

Landscape Boulders

    Landscape boulders are perfect for adding a terraced look to any gentle slope. The trick is to bury the bottom of the rock about 4 to 6 inches into the ground. Decorative grasses around the rock add a distinctive touch of authenticity, like the rock has been there for decades.

Rose Garden Design Ideas

Rose Garden Design Ideas

Few surroundings are more beautiful than a rose garden in full bloom. If you have the space, the sunlight and the inclination, you can turn your backyard or patio into a haven of roses, perfect for fragrant afternoons and relaxing summer evenings. With a little forethought, you can design a rose garden to fit any style landscape, from clipped and formal to wild and woolly. Does this Spark an idea?

The Traditional Rose Garden

    A reflecting pond provides a focal point for this formal rose garden.

    The formal, traditional rose garden is laid out geometrically, often in the shape of a square or rectangle. Use paving stones or strips of sod to divide the garden into symmetrical beds. Plant tree roses (also called rose standards) at the four outer corners of the garden, and shrub roses and hybrids in the beds. If the rose garden is situated against a wall or trellis, plant climbing roses along its length as a backdrop. Arrange the roses in the beds by color, grouping warm shades such as reds and pinks, and cooler shades such as whites and yellows. Give each plant enough space so that it can be admired on its own.

Cottage and Container Rose Gardens

    Be sure to include a bench or seating area where visitors can best admire your hard work.

    If the controlled, geometrical look isn't for you, or if you have an irregularly-shaped garden space, consider the cottage-style rose garden. The classic cottage garden appears unstudied and elegantly overgrown, but is actually the result of much planning. Climbing and shrub roses are at home in a cottage garden, as opposed to the more modern hybrid or tea roses. While some cottage rose gardens use roses exclusively, many situate other flowers and plants--even herbs and vegetables--between, and in front of, the roses to create a lush vista of color and foliage.

    If your only gardening space is a balcony or patio, don't worry, you can still have your roses. Many smaller varieties of roses are perfectly happy growing in containers. Miniature roses are especially well-suited for life in a container, but any variety that grows between 2 and 5 feet tall is a good candidate. Buy large pots or build square, wooden tubs at least 16 inches deep to give the roots room to grow.

Planting Tips for Roses

    However you decide to lay out your rose garden, there are a number of considerations to keep in mind. Roses need a good deal of light, at least six hours a day. (Cooler morning sun is preferable to strong afternoon sun, which can singe the flowers.) Before you plant, make certain that the garden is in an area with good soil and drainage, neither too dry nor too swampy after a rain. Roses prefer a soil pH of around 6.5 to 7.0, so test your soil beforehand and use soil mix-ins if necessary to change your soil to the correct acidity. Situate your roses far enough away from trees and shrubs so that they won't compete for root space. If you're planting rows of roses behind each other, be sure to plant the taller varieties behind the shorter ones, so that you won't accidentally hide your carefully-tended flowers.

Sunday, November 24, 2013

How to Protect Wood Furniture for Outdoor Use

Most wood furniture stored outside needs to have a finish to protect it from warping, rot and insect infestation. When wood is exposed to the elements year-round, it can become unattractive and even unusable. Proper surface preparation and finishing are necessary to extend the life of your wood furniture. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Treat your wood furniture with a preservative, available at most home supply stores. Furniture made from cedar, redwood, oak and pine needs a preservative to prevent decay and rot. Preservatives are water-based or oil-based, but only water-based products are approved for extended contact with people. Because penetration is different for different types of woods, make sure the preservative you choose will work well with your specific grain. Apply the preservative with a paintbrush in a well-ventilated area.

    2

    Apply a coat of polyurethane after the preservative has dried. The polyurethane will add a protective layer over the preservative, improving its water resistance and durability. The polyurethane you select will depend on the wood grain and your color preference. Apply one coat at a time, adding another coat if you want a deeper color or if the manufacturer's instructions call for it.

    3

    Clean the wood furniture at least once a year. Add 1 tbsp. of bleach and 5 tbsp. of dishwashing liquid to 1 gal. of water and gently wash the furniture with a sponge or soft bristle brush. Rinse the furniture and let it dry completely outside.

    4

    Touch up spots that have experienced wear and tear with polyurethane or stain. Covering the furniture with a waterproof tarp is also recommended, especially during the winter.

How to Prune Rose of Sharon Trees

Rose-of-Sharon (sometimes also called althea) is a blooming hibiscus shrub that grows six to ten feet tall. It is deciduous, with dark, shiny leaves and contrasting blooms in shades of pink, purple, blue, or white. Rose-of-Sharon is an easy care plant, and requires very little of gardeners. In fact, Rose-of-Sharon need never be pruned. However, if your Rose-of-Sharon is too large for the space you've given it, or you wish to prune it into a tree shape, you may. Rose-of-Sharon is hardy and will take almost any pruning treatment you give it. Still, to get the best blooms from the plant, a little extra care is a good idea. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Choose your time carefully. Many gardeners prefer to prune in the early spring, before buds appear. This encourages new growth and should not hinder flowers for the coming season. (Buds will form on the new growth.) Alternatively, you may prune the plant any time it needs it, but you will probably see fewer (or no) blooms that year.

    2

    Determine how long you want the branches of the plant to be, bearing in mind that Rose-of-Sharon grows rapidly.

    3

    Find a spot on a limb, just above a leaf. Cut at this spot, using clean hand pruners or loppers. To keep the plant looking natural, prune the branches to varying lengths.

    4

    Use hedge shears or loppers if you wish to perform a more serious pruning. You can cut Rose-of-Sharon back to two feet tall without injuring the plant.

    5

    Study the plant carefully before pruning Rose-of-Sharon into a tree shape. Look for the the straightest stem or trunk on the plant and keep that trunk only.

    6

    Remove all the remaining stems or trunks from the plant, using a saw. To help prevent the plant from developing an infection, seal the cuts with a product designed for this purpose. You can find products like this at a garden center.

    7

    Keep pruning off new growth in the spring, in order to maintain the plant's tree-like shape.

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    Product Description
    Balanced at the edge of a broad green leaf, a sparrow lifts his voice in a joyous springtime song. Distressed finish gives this handsome metalwork birdbath the appearance of a well-weathered antique. An enchanting garden decoration that serves as a welcome watering stop for thirsty birds. Cast iron and wrought iron. 14-3/4-inch x 12 1/4-inch x 27-1/2-inch high.


    Saturday, November 23, 2013

    Lime Sulfur Spray for Apple Trees

    Lime Sulfur Spray for Apple Trees

    Anyone who has grown apple trees knows that they involve a fair bit of maintenance. In fact, most apple trees need to be sprayed with certain pesticides on a regular schedule in order to protect the growing apples (and the tree) from invaders. Lime sulfur spray is one such spray that apple tree owners can use to combat a number of pests. The spray is also environmentally friendly because it is devoid of harsh chemicals. Does this Spark an idea?

    Basics

      Lime sulfur spray can refer to a number of sprays that contain various forms of sulfur. Calcium sulphide and calcium polysulphide are two common chemical formulations used in lime sulfur sprays. Sulfur itself can be toxic to some plant species so manufacturers add lime or calcium to soften the impact of the sulfur. The spray is intended as a fungicide, meaning it has a direct effect on fungi and fungal spores. Essentially, when the lime sulfur spray encounters the fungi, it inhibits the germination of spores and hinders its growth. The product can also be used against mites although how it works against them is unclear.

    Application

      Lime sulfur spray is sold either as a ready-to-use mixture (RTU) or as a concentrate. The concentrated forms need to be mixed with water at a certain ratio that depends on the strength of the concentrate. Once the spray is ready, it is applied to the tree, mainly on the leaf. As a rule, the spray should be applied to the apple tree until it lightly drips off the edges of the leaves. When and how frequently the apple tree needs to be sprayed with lime sulfur depends on the individual pest management schedule of the owner.

    Problems Treated

      The lime sulfur formulation is used to treat a number of apple tree problems. As noted, the spray is intended as a fungicide thus its main uses are in the control of apple scab, powdery mildew, black knot and black spot. The product can also be used to treat against mites as well but large infestations may require a miticide to properly handle the problem.

    Downfalls

      One downfall of lime sulfur spray is that it is limited in its effectiveness because it only treats fungi that are already present. Thus, although the product can be said to have use as a preventative measure, what is really happening is that any spores that are already on the tree will refuse to develop because of the spraying. Another downfall with lime sulfur is that it cannot be mixed with dormant oil, a type of substance used commonly to treat the insect problems apple trees experience. Therefore, a gardener who sprays with lime sulfur would have to wait at least four days to apply dormant oil without harming the tree.

    Cost

      Lime sulfur is fairly inexpensive and averages about ten dollars a quart, as of 2010. Factor in the number of times during the season the product needs to be used and how many trees need to be sprayed to get a better idea of what the total seasonal cost will be.

    How to Make a Garden Windmill

    How to Make a Garden Windmill

    Add whimsy to your garden landscape with a windmill you can make yourself. These decorative crafts are charming and can be small enough to add to a flower bed or large enough to be the focal point of your garden. Make your garden windmill from metal sheeting, copper tubing, PVC pipe or wood and paint any of the materials with exterior acrylics for added interest. Your windmill may not produce energy, but it will enhance the appearance of your garden. Does this Spark an idea?

    Instructions

      1

      Collect your materials from your local home improvement supply store. The materials list indicated here is for a 5' treated wood windmill. Adjust the sizes as needed to fit your garden. Most home improvement stores will cut the wood you purchase from them to size for you.

      2

      Attach the "L" bracket to the center of the 4 x 4 x 2 block of treated wood. Drill a one inch hole in the center of the 3 x 3 x 1 strip of treated wood. Attach the 3 x 3 x 1 wood strip to the "L" bracket.

      3

      Attach one of the five feet strips of wood loosely to each side of the 4 x 4 block at each corner. Stand the frame upright with the 4 x 4 block on top. Adjust the 5' legs of your garden windmill so that the base is shaped like a cone. The measurement between each strip should be equal across the bottom of the cone, somewhere between three and four feet. Tighten the screws to completely attach the 5' strips.

      4

      Cut the 4 x 7 wood panels to fit each section of your cone frame. Attach the panels to the 5' trim and 4" wood block of the cone. You now have the base for your garden windmill.

      5

      Make a template for the blades of your windmill with craft paper. The triangle shaped blades should have two sides that are 18 inches long and one side that is six inches wide. Cut four triangle shaped blades from the inch thick sheet of treated wood.

      6

      Drill one inch holes in each of the blades, as close to the end of the 18 inch tip as possible. Layer two of the blades side by side so that the holes are on top of each other. Join the two blades together with the 2 inch metal bracket, keeping the holes together. Add the other two blades to form a circle, keeping the holes uniformly together.

      7

      Insert the bolt through the hole in the blades, then through the opening in the 3 x 3 piece on top of the windmill base. Attach the bolt with a nut.

      8

      Seal your garden windmill with wood sealer.